WINE OF THE WEEK: Tűzkö Kékfrankos 2022, Tolna, Pannon, Hungary
£14, Majestic
How fitting that one of the signature aromas and flavours of Kékfrankos, Hungary’s most widely planted red grape, is paprika, the country’s national spice. To me, it often leans more towards pimentón, Spain’s smoked variety, as it does in Tűzkö Kékfrankos 2022, but either way it’s delicious and wholly characteristic.
The other key notes in this wine are red cherries, softly earthy, spicy oak, equally soft, rounded tannins and a Cabernet Franc-like freshness, making it crowd-pleasingly easy to drink, yet interesting and individual.
The wine has a back story to tell, too. The Tűzkö wine estate, founded in 1799, is one of Hungary’s oldest and for a long time was in the hands of the noble Apponyi family, who built its reputation for quality.
Under communism, it became a co-operative, before restructuring of the wine industry began in the 1990s. In 2000, it was bought by two leading Chianti names, Antinori (an 80% share) and Jacopo Mazzei of the family that has owned Castello di Fonterutoli for nearly 600 years.
Italian ownership, but not Italianate wine. That was never the intention. The oak in which the wine is barrel-aged for 14 months and the wine team behind it are as Hungarian as the grape variety (known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Lemberger or Limberger in the US).
What attracted the Antinori family were the wines being produced, the existing vineyards, the historic cellars dug out of the volcanic tuff rock and the setting: 250 hectares (170ha of vines) in the rolling Tolna hills in the Pannon PDO (protected designation of origin) in southern Hungary.
Unsurprisingly, it’s a wine that goes with paprika-accented food, including traditional beef goulash (gulyás), pork goulash and chorizo. It pairs with other spicy sausages and with pulses and vegetables such as chickpeas, butter beans, roast squash, sweet potato and cauliflower. It’s a good wine for tomato sauces, pasta dishes such as lasagne and spaghetti with meatballs and for pork in almost any form, from slow-roast belly to baked tenderloin with honey and soy glaze. 13%. Empty bottle weight: 490g.
Tűzkö Kékfrankos 2022, Tolna, Pannon PDO, Hungary
£14 in any 6-bottle mix, £16 singly, Majestic
It’s always interesting to discover wines from regions that don’t get as much attention as the more familiar European wine destinations. Tűzkő Kékfrankos from Tolna sounds like a great example of how Hungarian producers can offer distinctive character and a sense of place. I enjoy wine recommendations that introduce readers to lesser-known varieties and regions rather than sticking only to the usual choices. For a completely different kind of nostalgic experience afterward, Quenq Vice City offers a fun browser-based escape.
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I really enjoyed the details about the Hungarian wine and its history, especially the paprika and cherry notes. On a lighter free-time note, I’ve been playing Subway Surfers Online when I want a quick break, and it’s a fun, relaxing little game.