WINE OF THE WEEK: Royal Tokaji Nyulászó Dry Furmint 2018, Tokaj, Hungary
£18, The Wine Society If ever there was a wine that shouted terroir, it's this single-vineyard dry white Furmint from Nyulászó, one of Tokaji's First Growths in the enduring formal classification that dates from the late 18th century. Actually, shout is not the word: rather, it sings of its hillside volcanic bedrock and rich clay soils. How does that show itself in the wine? To me, in the arresting, tangy smoke aroma and mouthwatering tang on the palate that I think of as a v