£18, The Wine Society
If ever there was a wine that shouted terroir, it's this single-vineyard dry white Furmint from Nyulászó, one of Tokaji's First Growths in the enduring formal classification that dates from the late 18th century.
Actually, shout is not the word: rather, it sings of its hillside volcanic bedrock and rich clay soils. How does that show itself in the wine?
To me, in the arresting, tangy smoke aroma and mouthwatering tang on the palate that I think of as a volcanic character. It’s there throughout – from start to long, lingering, bone-dry finish – giving steely but elegant grip to the quince, lime, honey and deft Hungarian oak spice and to the apricot that takes over from quince as the wine opens up in the glass. It's really worth giving it time to unfold. You could even decant it.
As for food, it's an exhilarating aperitif, but also thrives on fish, chicken and green veg spiced with smoked paprika or rose harissa. In time, I would add pork to the list, too.
Finally – you never know when this might come in useful – the name Nyulászó means a good place to catch hares; hence the hare and archer on the label.
13.5%. Empty bottle weight: 509g.
Royal Tokaji Nyulászó 1st Growth Dry Furmint 2018, Tokaj, Hungary
£18, The Wine Society