WINE OF THE WEEK: Domaine de Montmarin Viognier 2025, Côtes de Thongue, Languedoc, France

£13.96, Private Cellar

This is French Mediterranean Viognier at its most appealing – radiant, airy, succulent and supple, with honeysuckle and peach on the nose, peach-cum-apricot and citrus on the palate, sea-spray freshness, rock-pool minerality and a seamless, rounded texture, thanks to five months’ ageing on fine lees.

Not a note out of place – and it’s a bargain, too.

What’s the secret? A combination of quite a few things, I think. There’s proximity to the sea, for a start: the vineyards are only 2km from the coast, between the town of Béziers and the Étang de Thau, and the vines, growing in sandy loam soils, are 10–30 years old, so they have had time to mature. There’s the dry, windy Mediterranean climate of the small Côtes de Thongue region.

And there’s the estate itself and the family who own it. Founded in 1488, Domaine de Montmarin extends over 400ha with 85ha of vines surrounded by the biodiversity of woodland and garrigue, and it’s now in the all-female hands of the 14th generation of the family. It is they who made the conversion to organic farming and winemaking.

The 2025 Domaine de Montmarin Viognier is a perfect aperitif, but it would also suit a spread of antipasti, shellfish (including when lightly spiced), and all sorts of summer salads – seafood, caprese, avocado, chicken. 12.5%. Empty bottle weight: 390g. 

Domaine de Montmarin Viognier 2025, Côtes de Thongue, Languedoc, France 

£13.96, Private Cellar, Bon Coeur Fine Wines

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