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WINE OF THE WEEK: Les Montys Le Parc Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2021, Loire, France

£15.95, Haynes Hanson & Clark

I admit it has previously passed me by, but as I scheduled this stellar organic Muscadet in to coincide with today's D-day 80 celebrations, I noticed that it’s also National Fish and Chip Day.


How felicitous! It would be perfect with fish and chips. Mind you, it pairs very well with plenty of other things, too (scroll down for more).


What makes this Muscadet different from mass-market labels is the wonderful depth of flavour that unfolds behind the ocean-fresh buoyancy and lightness of touch, opening up a world of delicate spritz and nutty, creamy richness, salty freshness and subtle lime and grapefruit. The more you sip, the more you discover.


The depth comes from the location, the age of the Melon de Bourgogne vines, the length of time the wine is aged sur lie (on its lees) and the flair of grower Jérémie Huchet, who took over the family domaine in the Sèvre et Maine subregion in 2001 and has since expanded it to 64 hectares.


Les Montys Le Parc (‘les montys’ means the small hills) is a single 11-ha vineyard on green granite soils overlooking the Marais de Goulaine nature reserve. Some of the vines are more than a century old, in parcels planted between 1914 and 1926, and the wine was aged sur lie for a lengthy 18 months, giving it its dreamy, silky texture.


You might not think of keeping Muscadet but you could let this mature until the end of the decade in cellar conditions.


As well as partnering fish and chips, it would go with all sorts of seafood – oysters, mussels and clams, salt and pepper squid, seared scallops with pea purée, tuna tartare with tamari, sesame oil and seeds (you could even spike it up with spring onion, ginger and a smidge of fresh chilli), lemon sole with tarragon or beurre blanc, skate, sea bream and most other white fish.


And it goes way beyond seafood pairings. It’s a great match for guacamole with corn totopos and would go seamlessly with pasta with lemon, ricotta and courgette/spinach/broccoli/broad beans, or with tarragon roast chicken or lemony chicken, to name only a handful. 12%. Empty bottle weight: 569g.


Les Montys Le Parc Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2021


£15.95 (or £14.15 when you buy 12), Haynes Hanson & Clark


1 Comment


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Jun 20

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