WINE OF THE WEEK: Akitu A2 Pinot Noir 2022, Central Otago, New Zealand
£29.50–£32, The Fulham Wine Company, The Champagne Company, Ocado
After last week’s spectacular bargain, this week is a little more indulgent, a cracking New Zealand Pinot Noir that would make an ideal red for the Thanksgiving or Christmas tables – if you can resist it until then – or an ideal present if you can bear to give it away.
Akitu, an old Maori word meaning apex or summit, is a family-owned 12ha Pinot Noir-only estate high up (380m) on schist soils in the breathtaking Southern Alps surroundings of Central Otago's Wanaka subregion. You should see the views from the vineyards. It was planted in 2002 and 2003 by Andrew Donaldson, who still owns and runs it and whose grandfather settled in the then very remote region in 1959 (I wrote more about Akitu here).
Akitu A2, the cheaper of the two regular Pinot Noirs, is a slightly different mix of clones from Akitu A1 (but seven altogether) and has less whole-bunch fermentation and slightly less new oak. But neither has much new oak: purity and expression of fruit and terroir are all, to which end everything is done by hand.
The 2022 Akitu A2 is mesmerisingly perfumed with rose and spiced red fruit – strawberries, cherries, a suggestion of cranberry – an exotic whiff of incense and earthy sandalwood. The palate is lush and flowing, yet focused, with sweet and tart red berries, a silky fine texture and bright, lingering finish. Gorgeous.
As well as turkey and Christmas gammon, it can be paired with prosciutto, duck, including smoked duck breast and friton de canard (similar to duck rillettes), roast pheasant and partridge, mushroom pasta and risotto, roast root vegetables and aubergine, seared tuna steaks or prosciutto-wrapped roast monkfish. Akitu recommends rabbit rillettes, which sounds good to me. You could also cellar Akitu A2 2022 until 2030. 13.5%. Empty bottle weight: 560g
Akitu A2 Pinot Noir 2022, Central Otago, New Zealand
£29.50–£32, The Fulham Wine Company, The Champagne Company, Ocado
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