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WINE OF THE WEEK: Denis Jamain Les Pierres Plates Reuilly Pinot Noir 2022, Loire, France

£16.95, Berry Bros & Rudd

Reuilly is better known for its Sauvignon Blanc, of which it produces more than twice as much, but its Pinot Noirs can be brilliant value, especially alongside much more famous and abundant red Sancerre (though that's not to denigrate the latter).

In comparison with its famous neigbour to the east, Reuilly also has the disadvantage of looking difficult to pronounce, but if you just say 'reu-yee' you're as good as there.

From a 4-hectare south-facing plot on Kimmeridgian limestone and clay and from the excellent 2022 vintage, Denis Jamain's organic and biodynamic Les Pierres Plates really sings – all rose petal fragrance, beguiling strawberry purity and succulence, silky texture and a dusting of graphite minerality and orange pomander. Bags of expression with a delicate touch.

Drink this lightly chilled – as cool as 12ºC in the summer – but at this time of year I like it closer to 15º or 16ºC. It pairs with fish such as salmon and tuna, prosciutto-wrapped cod, halibut or monkfish, halibut with mushrooms or fish cooked in red wine, with birds such as guinea fowl, quail, pheasant or ricotta and sage-stuffed chicken breasts wrapped in parma ham, and with vegetables such as pumpkin, squash and mushrooms. 13%. Empty bottle weight: 559g

Denis Jamain Les Pierres Plates Reuilly Pinot Noir 2022, Reuilly, Loire, France


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