£11, Tesco (25% off when you buy 6: £49.50)
Wire-wrapped bottles divide Spanish red wine drinkers into those who run a mile and those for whom they beckon invitingly. If you’re one of the runners, I'm with you. Much as I try not to have preconceptions, I can't help associating wire-nets with old-fashioned, oak-dominated reds. How wrong can I be? This is an oaky Rioja – it's a Gran Reserva, matured in oak for two years – but it’s also a dark, plummy, full-bodied Rioja made by the large and impressive Barón de Ley estate. The spicy, nutty, chocolaty oak snuggles up against velvety, ripe berries and there’s a soft, fresh, cedary note to finish. It’s a great partner for roasts of all sorts and many a casserole. More surprisingly, it’s mellow and low enough in tannin to go with fish such as salmon and tuna, if you give them a bit of spice and soy sauce to expand the savoury profile. And a final bonus, if you don’t want a label proclaiming Tesco on your table, the silver 'Tesco *finest' label peels off (which shows some self-awareness in the marketing department). Well done, Tesco.
Tesco *finest Viña del Cura Rioja Gran Reserva 2011, Rioja, Spain
£11, Tesco – in 684 stores and also available from tesco.com/wine