However different this Christmas turns out to be, wine is going to be at least as vital as usual. Here then is my round-up of red wines to cater for all kinds of occasion during the festive season, or no occasion at all. As always, wines are in 75cl bottles unless stated and are listed in ascending order of price, give or take differences in retailers’ prices and special offers. If you're in the money, you'll know to scroll down and start at the end. A couple of other things

£7 (on offer), Co-op A pale, dry, easygoing rosé that should be a dream for anyone who loves both Provence rosé and Rioja. It's light on its feet, fresh and supple with a spice and rose-oil fragrance and delicate red apple, cherry and redcurrant fruit. The producer is Ramón Bilbao, whose winemaker Rodolfo Bastida is an aficionado of Garnacha (aka Grenache), of pale dry rosados and of high-altitude vineyards: the grapes for this grow at 550–700m asl in the Alta Najerilla area

£13, Morrisons Made for Morrisons' The Best range by Baron de Ley, one of Rioja's commendable, big players, this combines the best of traditional white Rioja in its oak impact and the best of the modern style in its fruit and freshness. After 14 months' maturing in American oak, there's plenty of oaky, spicy, almost resiny richness, all neatly balanced by the intensity and zing of preserved-lemon fruit and a silky, rounded texture. If you don't like oaky wine, then it's not f

My round up of red wines to take you through all kinds of festivities - major, minor and in some cases festivities for years to come. As always, wines are listed in ascending order of price, give or take differences in retailers’ prices and special offers (note that offers in stores and online are not always the same). If you're in the money, you'll know to scroll down and start at the end. One big retailer worth a mention is the Co-op: several wines I would like to have reco

Clams and Galician blond breed beef (Rubia gallega) at Asador Etxebarri, where everything is grilled over wood fires, using different woods. Roda owner and founder Mario Rotllant isn't afraid to serve his red wines with fish and seafood. Or, for that matter, with desserts The text of this article was first published in The World of Fine Wine issue 60 Three decades is both a long time and a short time in the life of a wine producer starting from scratch and aiming for the star

£12.95, Great Western Wine There are some Riojas that wouldn't be up to Christmas lunch, but this has what it takes – and not only to stand up to the cacophony of trimmings and accompaniments that cascades around the traditional turkey but to stand up to a rib of beef with creamed horseradish (more cream/crème fraiche than horseradish, please) or a multi-cultural vegetarian or vegan fest. With roast goose I prefer more mature reds (my matching wine to goose principles are her

£14.95/£13.50, Lea & Sandeman At the annual tasting last week of The Bunch group of six independent wine merchants, of which Lea & Sandeman is one, most of the 60 wines had been made by women: it was this year's theme. I could have chosen any number for this slot, and no doubt will in the weeks to come, but this one, made by a woman, Sandra Bravo, wasn't one of the 60 (how contrary can I be?). Another of her Riojas was shown, the glorious 900-bottle Camino de Santa Cruz, but

£25–£29, Laithwaites, Swig, Armit Vina Ardanza is one of the true classics of Rioja. It's been around for 76 years and each vintage has the same overarching style – generous, inviting, elegantly oaky and spicy – but varying according to the growing season. 2009 was a hot, dry year, which isn't necessarily a good thing, but in this case September rains came at the right time to slow the pace of ripening and give succulent, sweet, spicy red fruit, nutty roundness and polished t

£12 (on offer), Sainsbury's Textbook Gran Reserva from CVNE, one of Rioja's most admired bodegas. Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (you can see why it's known as CVNE, pronounced 'coonay') has long since perfected a style that blends modernity with the best of classical approaches: in this case, combining ripe, dark fruit with two years' ageing in French and American oak barrels followed by three years in bottle. The result is a balance of sweet, velvety fruit with cream

£11, Tesco (25% off when you buy 6: £49.50) Wire-wrapped bottles divide Spanish red wine drinkers into those who run a mile and those for whom they beckon invitingly. If you’re one of the runners, I'm with you. Much as I try not to have preconceptions, I can't help associating wire-nets with old-fashioned, oak-dominated reds. How wrong can I be? This is an oaky Rioja – it's a Gran Reserva, matured in oak for two years – but it’s also a dark, plummy, full-bodied Rioja made by

£12.50, Hennings Wine A vibrant, butter-smooth white Rioja that combines the best of tradition with a new-wave contemporary feel, from a bodega that has been on a progressive footing since 1970 when Luis and Ángeles Cañas were the first in Rioja Alavesa to bottle their wine rather than sell it in bulk. Luis, now 86, still oversees the sorting table where the freshly harvested grapes are checked for quality before pressing. Fermentation is in new French oak barrels and the win

£12.95, FromVineyardsDirect This week’s wine is a comforting, oak-matured red for wintery weather and warming food. It’s a limited production from two of Rioja Vega’s oldest vineyards (mainly Tempranillo planted more than 50 year ago) made in a deliberately modern, full style to bring out vibrancy as well as richness – dark, glossy black fruit shot through with liquorice, spice, dark chocolate and toasty oak and a seductive cappuccino creaminess. While it’s a good match for r

£17.95, Jeroboams I’m always surprised how many Rioja drinkers – and there are a lot in Britain – only ever drink red Rioja. Far less white is produced, but that’s no reason to leave it on the shelf. Very broadly speaking, it comes in two styles: aged in oak barrels or without oak. I like it with some oak. Artadi, which is organic, was fermented in French oak, but not matured in it. Instead it was kept in large tanks for two years – a long time – and with the lees (dead ferme

£9.99, Waitrose until 20 September (then £13.49); £9.99 for 6 bottles, Majestic; £14, Tesco and Ocado The winemaker of this multi award-winning Rioja Reserva says that it could be cellared until 2024, but it’s so deliciously drinkable now you would need to be impressively self-disciplined, or buy a lot of it, to keep it that long. That said, the current special offer price of £9.99 in Waitrose (25% off, until 20 September) and Majestic’s six bottle price (also £9.99) does mak

£12.99, or £9.74 in any 6-bottle mix, Majestic Everything a Rioja Reserva should be and an ideal red with which to greet the new year: full and velvety with sweet berry, coffee, spice and cedar flavours wrapped in oak, but not swamped by it. Background: it was made at La Rioja Alta's Torre de Oña winery in the Rioja Alavesa area where it spent 20 months in oak, 70% of it French, 40% of it new. More importantly, it's a match for almost any roast or grilled meat, duck or game b

Whites to keep the show on the road this Christmas and New Year Wines listed in ascending order of price. I've given a UK stockist for each, but you can find other stockists in the UK and other countries on wine-searcher.com Tesco *finest Saint Mont 2014, France Mouthwatering, tangy lime and quince flavours. A brilliant, snappy fresh alternative to Sauvignon Blanc made from local grape varieties – mainly Gros Manseng – in Saint Mont, south west France. £5.50, Tesco Cimarosa M

Ten red wines to serve with the Christmas feast Wines listed in ascending order of price. I've given a UK stockist (or two) for each, but you can find other stockists in the UK and other countries on wine-searcher.com Cimarosa Carmenère 2012, Colchagua, Chile Crowd-pleasing, fresh, velvet-soft Carmenère with a typical, smoky, green-pepper edge to the blackberryish fruit. A match for turkey, but not up to goose. £6.99, Lidl Domaine Mas Barrau Cabernet Franc 2014, Pays du Gard,