WINE OF THE WEEK: Three Bowls Xinomavro 2023, Naoussa, Greece

£16, Maltby & Greek

I was torn about which one of the trio of Greek wines under the new Three Bowls label to choose. In the end, I put aside – for now – the pale, pretty, satisfyingly dry rosé (£14) and the white Assyrtiko (£15) in favour of the red Xinomavro from Naoussa, the heartland of this distinguished and distinctive Greek grape variety.

Distinguished? Distinctive? It’s a variety capable of captivating fragrance, but by nature its tannins are powerful and rugged and it has high acidity, which can make it aggressive when young, although long-lived. Not for nothing does Xinomavro translate as ‘sour black’ in Greek.

But not all Xinomavro is like that. Three Bowls 2023 is very much the approachable, contemporary face of the variety – pale, fluent and nimble with peppery strawberry fruit, delicate dusty spice and a characteristic flicker of sun-dappled tomato leaf.

The other two wines are equally approachable but true to their varieties: the rosé a blend of Assyrtiko and Xinomavro; and the white a pear, herb and citrus-accented Assyrtiko from the Peloponnese.

And that’s the idea. Greek wine specialist Maltby & Greek has developed this range “in collaboration with new-generation winemakers across Greece”.

The labels, too, are contemporary and engaging, while the name is taken from a text by Eubulus, a 4th century BC Greek playwright and poet, which starts: “Three bowls do I mix for the temperate.” I’ll leave you to read the rest on the bottle's back label or on Maltby & Greek's website.

Three Bowls Xinomavro 2023 is low enough in tannin to pair with grilled octopus and oily fish. It would also fall in easily with moussaka, herby lamb or pork chops, kofta, spanakopita, stuffed peppers and stuffed pasta (in both cases, vegetarian or meat). 13.5%. Empty bottle weight: 425g.

Three Bowls Xinomavro 2023, Naoussa, Greece

£16, Maltby & Greek

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