I was torn about which one of the trio of Greek wines under the new Three Bowls label to choose. In the end, I put aside – for now – the pale, dry rosé and the white Assyrtiko in favour of the red Xinomavro from Naoussa, the heartland of this distinguished and distinctive Greek grape variety.

A delicious, distinctive, dry white wine from northern Greece with a perfume of roses and Turkish delight

£11.99, Waitrose and waitrosecellar.com If you know that Xinomavro translates as 'acid black' you might be surprised to see the...