WINE OF THE WEEK: Tbilvino Saperavi 2023, Kakheti, Georgia

£12, Majestic

A typically dark and inky looking Georgian Saperavi with deep, briary blackberry and damson fruit, peppery, meaty undertones, a whisper of violets and salty tannins softened to just the right degree by brief oak ageing.

The oak is an international touch, adding a little polish, but it’s not used in an attempt by the producer Tbilvino to take the Saperavi character out of Georgia’s signature grape variety. And it doesn’t, not just because it’s quite hard to dampen down the naturally expressive Saperavi but because traditional qvevri are also used for part of the winemaking and ageing.

Quick refresher course: qvevri are the large amphorae-like clay pots with pointed bottoms that are buried in the ground where they keep a steady cool temperature, contribute their own distinctive flavours and allow minimal or micro-oxygenation. They’ve been used in Georgia since winemaking began there about 8,000 years ago.

You could age Tbilvino Saperavi 2023 in cellar conditions for another six or seven years, but it’s ready for drinking now too. Think of robust roasts, hearty meat, bean, chickpea and vegetable stews, barbecues and Georgian inspired dishes. 13%

Tbilvino Saperavi 2023, Kakheti, Georgia

£12 in any 6-bottle mix, £14 singly, Majestic

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