WINE OF THE WEEK: Maris Rare Orange 2024, Vin de France

£15.75, Vintage Roots

Aromatic, biodynamic, dry, fresh and altogether lovely, Rare Orange is from Bertie Eden’s 45-ha triple-certified biodynamic Château Maris estate in the Minervois La Livinière appellation (AOP/AOC), although this wine is a Vin de France because it’s made from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains.

The white Petits Grains is the finest of the many Muscat varieties, but Minervois La Livinière is an AOP exclusively for red wines. Even in the larger Minervois appellation, where dry whites can be made, only 10 per cent Muscat is allowed in the wines.

The all-Muscat Rare Orange is a pale, very faintly orange-tinged yellow and has a tiny refreshing spritz – and a crown cap. It smells of Earl Grey and green teas, philadelphus (mock orange), apricot, dried flowers, hay and orange oil with a fleeting whiff of ginger and cinnamon. The palate is round and textured with the lightest touch of tannin.

Another name for orange wines is skin-contact whites, because the skins are left with the juice/pulp like red wines, in the case of Rare Orange for seven days. It was fermented with indigenous yeasts at red wine temperatures – warmer than for white wines – producing a fleshier wine with a little tannic chew from the skins and pips.

While I’m in didactic mode, a reminder that farming biodynamically means letting nature and the lunar and solar cycles guide everything from soil preparation through to harvest, thereby preserving the environment for future generations. Bertie Eden believes that it also enables him to produce “purer, finer, more elegant wines”. I’m not going to argue with that. The proof is in the drinking.

What should you drink Rare Orange with? Kick off with it as your aperitif with anchovy stuffed olives, roast almonds, a slice or two saucisson – that sort of thing. Progress to fish, or grilled shallots, aubergines and other veg with romesco sauce, or chicken or duck legs baked with Chinese 5-spice or light Indian spicing, or, when summer is in the air, bring on the salads with burrata and/or prosciutto, tomatoes, figs or nectarines. 13%. Empty bottle weight: 770g.

Maris Rare Orange 2024, Vin de France

£15.75, Vintage Roots

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