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WINE OF THE WEEK: Le Domaine d'Henri Chablis Saint Pierre 2016, Chablis, France

£24.50, Berry Bros & Rudd

Considering that Chablis is one of my desert-island wines (on my increasingly chocca island) I’m astonished to find that this is the first to occupy the Wine of the Week slot in nearly four years. I could, of course, have found a cheaper one to recommend, but Le Domaine d’Henri’s Saint Pierre is, to me, the quintessence of Chablis – an exhilarating oyster-shell freshness and flavour, a savoury nuttiness that owes almost everything to Chardonnay and limestone, rather than to oak, a fine, creamy texture around a taut, persistent, mineral core and an elusive fruitiness that suggests green apple and lemon but never goes all out for either. The family behind the domaine is Laroche: Michel, who sold the world-famous Domaine Laroche in 2010, and his daughters Cécile and Margaux. Their vineyards, which include a plot of 80-year-old vines, are farmed organically and the wines are vinified with minimal intervention and natural yeasts.

It hardly needs saying that this is a shoo-in with shellfish, crustacea, smoked salmon and all but the oiliest fish, but it’s worth pointing out that Chablis is a more versatile wine than many people realise. Keep it in mind for lemony/herby chicken, cheese pastries, risotto, risi e bisi, pasta dishes with the likes of peas, lemon, ricotta etc, grilled courgettes, roast asparagus with Parmesan, salad first courses and charcuterie. It’s also a perfect aperitif. 13%. 

Le Domaine d'Henri Chablis Saint Pierre 2016, Chablis, France 

£24.50, Berry Bros & Rudd


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