WINE OF THE WEEK: La Multa Albilla Sobre Lías 2023, Vino Blanco de España, Spain

£14.99, Laithwaites

If you like trying wines that are off the beaten track, I can't wax too lyrical about this dry white made from low-yielding old vines high up in the arid hills of Manchuela in the Calatayud region in the west of Aragón (northeast Spain).

The nose is fresh and delicate – lifted with Alpine flowers, lemon groves and a glimmer of pineapple – and the palate has a waxy, creamy roundness from lees ageing (sobre lías), sweet citrus intensity, gentle smokiness and a fresh mineral pull.

It's made from the very rare, localised Albilla de Villamalea grape variety (Albilla for short) by Norrel Robertson, a Master of Wine known as El Escoces Volante (the flying Scotsman). He has been ferreting out and reviving old, abandoned family vineyards and almost-lost grape varieties in Calatayud for more than two decades.

I’m tempted to say drink it on its own to savour and ruminate over its deliciously different flavours, but you could equally well pair it with sauced white fish, shellfish, fish pie, quiche lorraine, creamy pasta or chicken dishes dishes or a roast chicken. 12.5%. Empty bottle weight: 412g.

La Multa Albilla Sobre Lías 2023, Vino Blanco de España, Spain

£14.99, Laithwaites

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