WINE OF THE WEEK: Kellerei Kurtatsch Caliz Chardonnay 2024, Süd Tirol - Alto Adige, Italy

£18.30/£16.25, Haynes Hanson & Clark

Italy is not most people’s first port of call for Chardonnay, nor perhaps are mountain regions, but high up in the Alpine northeast of Italy, in the predominantly white-wine region of Alto Adige/Süd Tirol, Chardonnay vineyards are second only to Pinot Grigio and the wines produced have a captivating purity and freshness.

It’s a character and style that comes from the terroir – from the vineyards rather than from fancy work in the wineries. This is a region of tiny vineyards lying high up on steep slopes facing in all directions to catch the best of the bright Dolomite sunshine.

Kellerei (or Cantina) Kurtatsch’s 190 hectares sit at 220–900m asl and they’re divided between 190 families, all farming sustainably. Co-operatives dominate the region and here, unlike in some areas, the co-ops are celebrated for the quality of their output, not least Kurtatsch, one of the smallest and oldest.

Its Caliz Chardonnay, named after the chalky Dolomite limestone in the soils, has a pristine, aerial feel, supple texture, notes of cantaloupe melon, chervil and grapefruit, and bright, sustaining acidity.

It was fermented in stainless steel and larger oak barrels then aged on fine lees in stainless steel. As I say, no fancy work, just sensitivity and diligence.

The winemaker, Erwin Carli, is quoted on the website as saying: “A wine comes from a specific territory and must reflect it, even though it may clash with current styles. Trends come and go, vines are here to stay.” Hear, hear.

The 2024 Caliz Chardonnay could be drunk anytime over the next three years and works as an aperitif as well as with creamy pasta, risotto, chicken (with herbs/lemon/cream), fish pie, white fish, salmon, omelettes and sauces such as mayonnaise and hollandaise. 13%. Empty bottle weight: 553g

Kellerei Kurtatsch Caliz Chardonnay 2024, Süd Tirol - Alto Adige, Italy

£18.30, or £16.25 when you buy 6, Haynes Hanson & Clark

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