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WINE OF THE WEEK: Andrian Alto Adige Müller-Thurgau 2019, Italy

£14.50, The Daily Drinker

This is the first time I've mentioned Müller Thurgau on my website; never mind recommended it. Extraordinary. And yet not so extraordinary. As a grape variety, its reputation rests on early ripening pretty well anywhere and all too plentifully. As a white wine, its past reputation in Germany, England and New Zealand is best forgotten. But in Italy's Alto Adige (aka Sud Tirol or South Tyrol) it's something else.

The delightful Müller Thurgau from Kellerei (or Cantina) Andrian, the region's oldest wine co-operative, is dry and aromatic with Alpine purity and freshness and a distinctive nettle streak, even a nip of sage, running through appetising elderflower, citrus and orchard fruit. There's no oak, but six months' resting in tank on fine lees has rounded out the palate perfectly to complement the zippy, mountain acidity.

If you want to drink it beyond the aperitif stage, think about things like fritto misto or calamari, other light fish/seafood dishes, courgette fritters, risotto with herbs or broadbeans/peas/courgettes, or lightly spiced Asian-inspired dishes. 12.5%

Kellerei Andrian Müller Thurgau 2019, Alto Adige, Italy


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