Running With Bulls is one of the new breed (excuse the pun) of Australian wines made from non-traditional grape varieties. Across Australia, winemakers have been trying to get out of the Shiraz-Cabernet-Chardonnay straightjacket for a decade and more – not least because of climate change – but planting new vineyards or replanting existing ones takes time wherever you are – and money. The added obstacle in Australia is that imported cuttings have to go through years of quarantine. Now, though, we're beginning to see a steady trickle of alternative varieties (see my blog on Assyrtiko). Tempranillo, the main grape of Rioja, is adapting well. This one is made in a medium-bodied Joven style – without oak – to show off Tempranillo's youthful, sweet, floral-edged fruit, fluid tannins and typical earthy-spicy savoury note – almost leather but not quite. It's also made in quite a hands-off way with fermentation (including malolactic) by wild yeasts. If you're a meat-eater, it's particularly good with herby lamb and with duck, but it's a food-friendly wine. Just so you know, there's a different Running With Bulls Tempranillo, sold in independents: the label has a white background and it says Barossa, instead of South Australia. Because it's from a more specific region and is also aged in oak, it's inevitably more expensive.
Yalumba Running With Bulls South Australia Tempranillo 2014, Australia
£7.99, Co-op (110 stores which isn't a huge number, but you can enquire using the customer service number, 0800 0686727, or the contact form, http://secure.co-operativefood.co.uk/contact-us/)