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Tomatoes: Gelée de Tomates
This was one of the recipes I wrote for The Sunday Times. The others were published in August 2009, but this one had to be dropped at the...
Sep 10, 2016


Tomatoes: Introduction & How To Peel
Fresh tomatoes are with us all year, but there’s still something about eating them in summer – even late summer – that’s so much better....
Sep 9, 2016


WINE OF THE WEEK: Beronia Rioja Reserva 2011, Spain
£9.99, Waitrose until 20 September (then £13.49); £9.99 for 6 bottles, Majestic; £14, Tesco and Ocado The winemaker of this multi...
Sep 8, 2016


Krug, Egg, Two Chefs and Two Michelin Stars
Above: Iberico pork, ajo blanco, boquerón anchovies, eggshell and cinders by Michael O'Hare. The edible eggshell was made from egg white,...
Sep 2, 2016


WINE OF THE WEEK: Léon Beyer Sylvaner 2014, Alsace, France
£8.50, The Wine Society There are much showier Alsace wines, not least Gewurztraminer, but for an aperitif or a match for salad,...
Sep 1, 2016


Herbs: Tips and Extras
Some other ways with herbs: • Herb butters for meat, fish, vegetables, pasta, risotto, sandwiches et al. Use any herb you like, including...
Aug 31, 2016


Drinking history
45 years old and still in perfect health Drinking history: there are times when only a well-worn phrase will do. I’ve just had one of...
Aug 30, 2016


Herbs: Raspberry, Rosé and Rosemary Sorbet
This is a combination of two recipes given to me by the Chilean winery Errazuriz, so it is their fruity Errazuriz Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé...
Aug 29, 2016


Try finding a wine writer who doesn't love Alfred Gratien Champagne
Chef de cave Nicolas Jaeger who still ferments everything in oak barrels Alfred Gratien must be one of the least visited of Champagne...
Aug 26, 2016


WINE OF THE WEEK: Te Mata Gamay Noir 2015, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
£18.75, Harvey Nichols; £14.75, Hawkshead Wines There are a lot of red wines I don’t want to go near in a heat-wave but this one is a...
Aug 25, 2016


Herbs: Roast Chicken with Thyme and Cream Cheese
Herbs and cream cheese slotted in under the skin along the breasts not only flavour the bird but also keep the flesh beautifully moist –...
Aug 23, 2016


Herbs: Dill and Orange-Stuffed Whole Roast Fish
This is a simple, zingy stuffing for whole fish such as sea bass, bream, red mullet, mackerel or trout or whatever is in season and...
Aug 20, 2016


WINE OF THE WEEK: Lyme Bay Shoreline 2014, Devon, England
£12.85, lymebayenglishwines.co.uk; £12.99, waitrosecellar.com England’s sparkling wines crowd the headlines, but the best still wines...
Aug 18, 2016


Herbs: Risotto with rosemary and parsley
I’m wary of the kitchen sink approach to risotto - swamping the essential taste of rice, butter and stock with ingredients more suited to...
Aug 14, 2016


WINE OF THE WEEK: Maquina & Tabla Laderas de Leonila 2013, Bierzo, Spain
£14.50, or £12.95 in any 12 bottles, Lea & Sandeman I don’t begrudge Rioja any of its success, but I wish it didn’t overshadow the...
Aug 11, 2016


Playing with Fire: Ekstedt restaurant in Stockholm
Cooking over fire at Ekstedt (clockwise from top left): wood-fired oven with loaves of bread waiting at the side to go in, smoke box and...
Aug 9, 2016


Herbs: Rocket, Basil, Mint and Parsley Soup
Rosemary is perfect with lamb, sage is a triumph with pork, mint brings out the flavour of peas and tarragon and chicken were made for...
Aug 6, 2016


WINE OF THE WEEK: Ad Mare Bandol Rosé 2015, Bandol, France
£13 until 9 August, then back to £15, Sainsbury's This is one of those ultra-pale rosés that looks almost like white wine but is anything...
Aug 4, 2016


Basque dreams: Ametsa with Arzak Instruction
For some reason 2016 is turning out to be a great year for eating. I seem to have had more, more than usually exciting restaurant meals...
Aug 2, 2016


Blackcurrants: Tips and Extras
Ending off this blackcurrant series with, as always, some tips and extra ideas of what to do with all the blackcurrants I know you've...
Aug 1, 2016
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