Etna wines have become hugely trendy in the last few years, and rightly so. From soaring vineyards on the volcanic soils of an active volcano, they've got everything – quality, character and singularity. The Costantino family's 10 hectares lie at about 450–550 metres in Contrada Blandano on the south-eastern slopes, from where, they say, they can see the sea and taste the windblown tang of salt. Some of Etna's vineyards are twice as high again.
Red wine heavily outweighs white in the DOC, but the whites can be every bit as interesting (and there's rosé too). The predominant white grape variety is Etna's own Carricante, which has to be 60% minimum in the wine and combines citrus and tropical fruit with crackling acidity and distinctive, smoky minerality. De Aetna Bianco is 80% Carricante and has mouthwatering lime, orange zest and stone fruit succulence, smoky, mineral intensity and a long salty, tinglingly fresh finish.
It can be drunk on its own and also goes very well with all sorts of fish and vegetables, even coping with marinated artichoke hearts, a severe test for any wine. I have octopus lined up for next time. 13.5%
Terra Costantino De Aetna Etna Bianco 2018, Sicily, Italy
£16.76 (on offer until 3 January, down from £20.95), Jeroboams