£14.99, Laithwaites
Assyrtiko from mainland Greece can come seem a bit underpowered in comparison with the volcanic mineral intensity and sea-breeze vibrancy of Santorini, but this Assyrtiko from northwest Greece is a mouthwatering combination of succulent apple, pear and lime fruit, racy freshness and minerality and delicate, creamy weight.
The climate and terrain are quite different from Santorini, but both regions enjoy (if that’s the word) extremes. Kir-Yianni Assyrtiko is grown at 700m asl in poor sandy soils in the mountainous vineyards of Amyndeon. Winters are cold and summers hot, although both seasons are moderated to an extent by four nearby lakes.
The vines are relatively young, at eight to 10 years old, and the Kir-Yianni team led by Stellios Boutaris brings out the best in them with a pre-fermentation cold soak to enhance the aromas and post-fermentation ageing on the fine lees to add breadth and complexity.
I would like to be sipping this with the waves lapping below me. Failing that (which I am), it goes well with dressed crab and other crustacea, squid and other molluscs, white fish and fresh anchovies. It's also good with spring vegetables and tomato salads, risotto primavera and creamy pasta dishes. 13%. Empty bottle weight: 410g.
Kir-Yianni Assyrtiko 2022, Florina, Macedonia, Greece
£16.99, or £14.99 in any 6-bottle mix, Laithwaites