WINE OF THE WEEK: Domaine Silène des Peyrals 2021, Grés de Montpellier Languedoc, France

£19.50, Vintage Roots

Grés de Montpellier only became an AOP in its own right from the 2024 vintage (appellation controlée in the old terminology), so this 2021 predates that and has to say Languedoc after Grès de Montpellier on the label, but its quality soars way above many a more famous southern French AOP.

It was aged for 12 months in French oak barrels and is deep crimson in colour with weight and power carried airily by seamless, silky tannins, generous fruit and drifts of irises, black cherries, garrigue herbs, spices (nutmeg sweetness and the slightly bitter, woody cinnamon note of cassia bark) and a hint of blood orange.

The blend of Domaine Silène des Peyrals varies from vintage to vintage – all wines of the AOP have to be a blend of at least two of the sanctioned varieties – but this 2021 is Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan and Grenache Noir from 25–30 year old vines.

The point, though, is that it's not so much the grape varieties that define the wine and the appellation as the climate and stony terrain.

The Mediterranean is close enough for sea breezes to moderate the summer temperatures and at Domaine Silène the stony vineyards are surrounded by truffle oaks, an olive grove, pine forests and garrigue – and it’s the area’s distinctive pebbly stones, grès in occitan, that give their name to the appellation.

The estate, one of 15 in Languedoc owned by Jean Claude Mas, one of the region’s great innovators and pioneers of quality wine, is certified organic and has been run on biodynamic principles since 1995, just a few years after he established it with his mentor, the late, renowned Italian oenologist Giorgio Grai.

It's a wonderful wine which I would happily continue to drink over the next four years with, among other things, barbecued and roast meats, daubes and other stews, game, rich tomato pastas, ratatouille, roast, root and Mediterranean vegetables and hard and semi-hard sheep and cow’s cheeses.

Domaine Silène des Peyrals 2021, Grés de Montpellier Languedoc, France

£19.50, Vintage Roots; £23, Xtrawine

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