£11.95–£12.99, Saxtys Wines, Quantock Abbey Wine, Adnams
This is not a wine that's going to stand out on the shelf, but it deserves to. Behind the classically restrained label is an enchanting cool-climate Pinot Noir, with red cherry, cranberry and soft-spoken spice woven together with textbook purity, suppleness, freshness and elegant complexity. Pair it with fish such as tuna or prosciutto-wrapped cod or monkfish, with poultry (e.g. roast chicken or quail), meat such as pork tenderloin or delicate new-season lamb, or savoury tarts. 13.5%.
The family behind the wine, De Bortoli – now fourth generation wine growers – are most famous for Noble One, their trail-blazing, multi award-winning Australian botrytis Semillon from the Riverina, but they've been pioneers of cool-climate wines in the Yarra Valley and their Chardonnays and other Pinot Noirs are well worth trying.
De Bortoli Regional Reserve Pinot Noir 2018, Yarra Valley Australia