WINE OF THE WEEK: Château de Thau 2022, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France

£16.60/£14.75, Haynes Hanson & Clark

This polished, oak-matured Côtes de Bourg shows what good value and sheer drinkability there is to be found in some of the less well known, less glamorous appellations of Bordeaux – especially in an outstanding vintage like 2022.

The appealing crimson-purple colour of Château de Thau 2022, the whiff of violets and vanilla, the generous plum and black fruit, calm tannins, cool freshness and notes of oak-spice, cedar and graphite would surely persuade anyone.

It comes from a château dating from the 12th century that has been owned and run by the Schweitzer family since 1963 and it’s predominantly Merlot, like most Côtes de Bourg, here with 30 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon..

The Schweitzers describe their vineyards, a few kilometres north of the town of Bourg, as lying on the plateau above the high limestone cliffs overlooking the Gironde and having clay and limestone soils. We’re not talking Médoc gravels here, which is why Merlot works so well.

If you know where Côtes de Bourg is, skip the next bit; otherwise stick around for a brief location lesson. Bourg is about 40k north of the city of Bordeaux, but on the Right Bank, and it’s about 35km northwest of the town of Libourne, which sits on the southeast edge of the Right Bank’s decidedly glamorous Pomerol appellation. That’s it.

In perfect cellar conditions, you could keep Château de Thau 2022  for another five years, but it’s on top form already, which is why it’s part of Haynes Hanson & Clark’s annual ready-for-drinking Bordeaux selection.

HH&C has always shipped direct from growers and its Bordeaux spring offer is something to check out every year – along with all its French wines. In fact, let’s just say all its wines.

The 2022 Château de Thau pairs with lamb (unsurprisingly), including in casseroles, but goes well beyond to things like herby lentil and bean stews, steak, beef empanadas and burritos (as long as you aren't heavy handed with spices, tomato or sugar), veal, or, as I enjoyed it, with pink Gressingham duck breasts, roast cauliflower, aubergine and garlic, a simple green salad and then Mimolette and Ossau Iraty cheeses. If I had had some Cantal Entre Deux or Montgomery cheddar, I would have tried those too. 14%. Empty bottle weight: 500g

Wine of the Week: Château de Thau 2022, Côtes de Bourg, Bordeaux, France

£16.60, or £14.75 for 6, Haynes Hanson & Clark

#wine #France #Bordeaux #Merlot #wineandfood #winepairing #red