WINE OF THE WEEK: Bolgrad Select Saperavi 2023, Odesa, Ukraine

£7.99, Lidl

If anyone thinks I have chosen this red to show solidarity with Ukraine, I assure you that’s not the reason (although I do wholeheartedly support Ukraine).

I hoped I would like this and its white partner, but I judged them as I would any others – and had I not thought that Bolgrad Select Saperavi was very good and good value, it would not be here. In fact, it’s not just good value, it’s excellent value. (And, by the way, it is the 2023 vintage, despite the photo.)

The white Duo, a blend of Chardonnay and an aromatic indigenous variety, is also good (it will be in this year’s Festive White Wine Guide), but the Saperavi is an absolute star: glowing crimson with a sun-warmed cherry and raspberry nose, a generous, bright, smooth, fruity palate and a spicy bitter-cherry and almond twist to refresh the finish.

The Bolgrad Winery is in the town of the same name in southwest Ukraine, to the southwest of the Black Sea port of Odesa and close to the Yalpug freshwater lake, and both wines are made without oak in stainless steel to showcase the quality of the fruit.

The Saperavi pairs well with wintery daubes and casseroles – bean, lamb or beef – and with spaghetti and meatballs, chilli con carne and braised lamb shanks. It can also be paired with lighter food such as charcuterie or with Manchego and other sheep cheeses and it would be a good all-rounder with a large and varied meze. 14%

Bolgrad Select Saperavi 2023, Odesa, Ukraine

£7.99, Lidl

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