£19.99, Loki Wine
This is one of two new wines from Katie Jones in Languedoc-Roussillon, one white (this one) and one orange, both made in tiny quantities. There are 3,000 bottles of Les Parcelles, sold only by Loki Wine (three shops and online), and even fewer bottles, 1,200, of the 2022 Vin Orange, which The Wine Society is selling.
They’re both excellent but I had to choose one as Wine of the Week (it’s like trying to choose between your children) and came down on the side of Les Parcelles because it’s a new departure, whereas there have been Domaine Jones orange wines in previous vintages, although not this blend of Macabeu with 20 per cent Grenache Gris.
Les Parcelles is different because Katie is a single-vineyard specialist, but this is a blend of four of the region’s quintessential white varieties from five of her parcels of old vines around the village of Tuchan.
If white Fitou wine were to exist, not just red, this would be it, she says.
The four are Grenache Gris, Macabeu, Muscat and Grenache Blanc and each is fermented separately, the free-run juice in vats and the press wine in oak barrels.
The result is silky roundness, structure and just a hint of smoky oak with ripples of fresh, blossomy, pear, pine-needle, dill and lime flavours. It’s ready now, but if you’ve got a cellar I would put a few extra bottles away and see what happens over the next three years or so.
For now it’s delicious as an aperitif, or try it with white fish with a herb and lemon/lime crust or in a lightly creamy sauce, or pasta with ricotta, lemon, herbs and beans/peas/broccoli, or a creamy, Parmesan-topped fennel or endive gratin. 13.5%. Empty bottle weight: 544g.
Domaine Jones Les Parcelles Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2022, Vin de France
£19.99, Loki Wine
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