Godello grows in the far north west of Spain, like the better known Albariño, except that Godello's stronghold of Valdeorras is inland from Albariño's damp, coastal heartland of Rías Baixas. The wines they produce aren't a million miles apart in style. Both are aromatic, often with peach, citrus and mineral flavours, but Godello has more richness and flesh, which can make it a deal more satisfying than a bog-standard Albariño. Cuvée O combines peach and apple with creamy roundness, gentle chewiness and a cool, citrus and mineral finish. It makes a good accompaniment to fish, seafood and chicken, including in cream sauces, but goes down equally well on its own. If Godello isn't as well known as Albariño, it's only because there isn't as much grown and that's because it had to be rescued from the brink of extinction by a couple of far-sighted and determined wine producers in the late 1970s. Sombreros off to them.
Avancia Cuvée O Godello 2016, Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain
£16.99, or £14.99 in any 6-bottle mix, Majestic