There are lots of misconceptions about red burgundy, two of the most glaring being that it’s a full-bodied wine and always costs an arm and a leg. The best red burgundies are fascinating and complex in flavour but never heavyweights. They can’t be cheap, not least because of the tiny quantities they’re made in, but there are alternatives to the hallowed names. From the right grower, burgundies bearing the simple Bourgogne designation can be beautifully pure and graceful expressions of the Pinot Noir grape. This one, made from old vines by Nicolas Potel and his team, carries the scented elegance of fresh summer berries. It would be a waste of the wine to overwhelm it with strong flavours, but poultry, veal, rabbit, pork and light game are all possibilities. It's part of Oddbins' impressively revitalised burgundy range.
Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes 2014, Bourgogne, France
£16, Oddbins, oddbins.com