Caught in the act: me snapping the documentary cameraman from National Geographic photographing my three bottles of Grange just before we go into the recorking clinic (photograph by Helen Taylor) Genial, intelligent, amusing: everyone warms to Peter Gago, Penfolds’ chief winemaker (left), so you wouldn’t think that taking three bottles of wine for him to look at would be nerve-racking. Nerve-racking? It was agonising. First there was a 40-minute journey on public transport to