When gin distiller Angus Lugsdin was visiting Château Climens in Barsac for the first time, the fog was so thick he couldn’t find it. Suddenly it emerged out of the fog like a phantom. Later, when he was naming his new gin, the sixth and latest in Salcombe Distilling Company’s limited-edition Voyager Series, each named after a nineteenth-century Salcombe fruiter (fruit schooner), Phantom seemed the obvious fruiter to choose. Obvious because Phantom was created in collaboratio

‘Tis the season for sweet and fortified wines, for entertaining, for communing with quietly, or giving as presents. Fortifieds, in particular, are often bargains and the Riesling, Tokajis, Sétubal, Madeira and single quinta port I’ve chosen can all be cellared. So can the Noval LBV, but that’s not the norm. Deciding on the order of wines in this guide is always problematic and this year I have reverted to ascending order of price, but within three categories: Sweet, Dry Sherr