£12.50, The Wine Society
It's easier than it used to be to find good light-bodied red wines, but even so this crystal-bright Veronese red is a discovery. Rondinella is one of the grape varieties in Valpolicella but, playing second fiddle to the more assertive Corvina, it seldom gets solo billing. At Le Fraghe, by Lake Garda, it gets TLC in the vineyards and the winery from Matilde Poggi and the result is a wine with oodles of charm and personality: fragrant crushed cherry and wild strawberry fruit with a counterpoint of almond and bitter coffee and a refreshing, sour-cherry twist to the finish. Delicious, especially if served cool, either on its own or with prosciutto, tuna or a herby roast chicken. The birds on the label, by the way, are swallows: rondinella is the Italian diminutive for a swallow and chelidon is Greek for a swallow.
One word of warning: this wine is part of The Wine Society's current Flavours of Italy offer and stock is limited, so get in there and buy, and have a look at the rest of the offer – it's full of interest. Among others, there's a dark pink Basilicata Rosato (Le Ralle), a red Basilicata Primitivo (Sterparo, from the same producer, Alovini), a red made from Bovale in Sardinia and a Sicilian Bianco called Regaleali that I've had a soft spot for since visiting the producer, Tasca d'Almerita, decades ago.
Le Fraghe Chelidon Rondinella 2015, Veneto, Italy
£12.50, The Wine Society, thewinesociety.com