£12.95, The Wine Society
This is as much a wine for Albariño doubters as it is for devotees. It's a stunner. Albariño is a Galician grape variety that has become a bit too fashionable for its own good, with predictable effects on the quality of some bottles, so I understand why some people wonder what the fuss is about. One taste of this and anyone will be a converted. It has wonderful purity and precision with lemony, floral fruit, a hint of apricot and a fresh sea-salty finish. You can almost feel the sea spray on your face when you drink it. It goes with fish and seafood of almost any kind, although can be less good with oily fish like mackerel, and it's good with tomatoey dishes and tapas. It's made for The Wine Society by the family-owned and run Pazo de Señoráns and is part of the Society's Exhibition range, its top own-label range. The wines for this come from seriously good growers around the world and they alone are reason enough to join the Society, though there are plenty of other good reasons. A one-off lifetime membership is £40, but as you get £20 off your first order you might as well call it £20. Don't say I didn't remind you when you're scratching your head looking for that perfect present for someone.
The Society's Exhibition Albariño 2015, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain
£12.95, The Wine Society, thewinesociety.com