This is archetypal winter food – thick and warming. It’s filling enough for a simple mid-week lunch and delicious enough for a dinner party, especially with the optional booze. Serves 6 25g unsalted butter 1 medium onion, chopped 1 stick of celery, chopped, or 2 bay leaves 500g chestnuts, peeled I litre of hot chicken stock 220ml crème fraiche freshly grated nutmeg sea salt freshly ground black pepper dry sherry or madeira (optional) Melt the butter in a heavy-based

Rosemary is perfect with lamb, sage is a triumph with pork, mint brings out the flavour of peas and tarragon and chicken were made for each other. I wouldn’t argue with any of that, but it seems such a waste of herbs to be boxed in with particular pairings. Let me suggest a much simpler approach: choose varieties that you like and which are at their best, rather than sticking rigidly to formulas. I also want to put in a plea for using more fresh herbs at the last minute. It’s