Winter trips to Champagne can be a bit nippy. Perishingly cold, actually (cue: violins). And tasting dozens of vins clairs, the region’s sharp, thin, still wines assembled for blending in the Spring, is a tooth-rattling experience (more violins). But the real trial of a trip of several days or more is the lack of drinkable still wines (OK, so the violins are looking a little outraged at having to play to this). You invariably eat extremely well when visiting Champagne houses