£12.50, Hennings Wine A vibrant, butter-smooth white Rioja that combines the best of tradition with a new-wave contemporary feel, from a bodega that has been on a progressive footing since 1970 when Luis and Ángeles Cañas were the first in Rioja Alavesa to bottle their wine rather than sell it in bulk. Luis, now 86, still oversees the sorting table where the freshly harvested grapes are checked for quality before pressing. Fermentation is in new French oak barrels and the win

£17.95, Jeroboams I’m always surprised how many Rioja drinkers – and there are a lot in Britain – only ever drink red Rioja. Far less white is produced, but that’s no reason to leave it on the shelf. Very broadly speaking, it comes in two styles: aged in oak barrels or without oak. I like it with some oak. Artadi, which is organic, was fermented in French oak, but not matured in it. Instead it was kept in large tanks for two years – a long time – and with the lees (dead ferme