£11.95 (37.5cl), Lea & Sandeman; £12.49 (37.5cl), Martinez Wines Outstanding Manzanilla, aptly named and great value for such quality. It's slightly darker, fuller bodied and more intensely saline – altogether more complex – than the average Manzanilla or Fino, because it's en rama, meaning bottled from the cask without the usual filtration. I don't want to reduce it to a list of aromas and flavours, but I found fresh hops, smoke/gunflint, green apple, salted almonds, Marmite