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WINE OF THE WEEK: Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling 2021/2022, South Australia

£16.50–£18.85, The Champagne Co, N D John Wine, Soho Wine Co, NYWines, Ocado, many other independents

Not quite two for the price of one, but both the 2021 and 2022 vintages of this historic single-vineyard Riesling are available and they’re equally good: classic, mouthwatering Eden Valley dry Rieslings from very good vintages.

And yet they are different. That’s the fascination of wine, of course.

I didn’t taste the wines side by side, but it’s clear from my notes (and memory) that the the younger wine, tasted yesterday, seems a little more relaxed and floral than the 2021 did three months ago.

Both have the characteristic glacial acidity of South Australia’s Eden and Clare Valley Rieslings, and they share riveting, juicy lime and lime blossom fruit streaked with green herb and mineral notes, but the 2022 has touches of jasmine and peach and is more chalky than flinty, making it feel a little more open and expansive.

They will both age well – the 2022 at least until 2032, the 2021 perhaps to 2035 – but they are compelling already and particularly good with crustacea, such as prawns or seared scallops with pea shoots.

They can also be paired with smoked fish, white fish such as skate with capers, or lemon sole with sorrel sauce, dill-cured herrings, salads, including Thai, mild kimchi (baek or white), other dishes with South East Asian flavourings (but not with overt chilli or sweetness) and with tomatoes, including sun-dried. 2021: 12%. 2022: 12.5%. Empty bottle weight (2021): 530g.

Pewsey Vale Eden Valley Riesling 2021/2022, South Australia, Australia

2021: £16.50, The Champagne Company; £16.95, N D John Wine; £17.99, Soho Wine Co; £18.55, NYWines; £18.99, Australian Wines Online; £19.75, Bakers & Larners; £19.80, Bon Coeur Fine Wines

2022: £17, London End Wines; £17.95, Grand Cru Co; £18.85, Ocado; £18.95, Frazier's Wine; £19.05, Barrique Fine Wines; £19.95, Hennings Wine


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