£14, The Daily Drinker
A weighty, characterful dry white made from Cayetana Blanca, an old variety that goes under a variety of names in both Spain and Portugal (among them Pardina, Jaén Blanco and Mourisco Branco). Apparently, a lot of Cayetana is used for Brandy de Jerez. I can only hope it's not grapes of the quality that have produced this wine, which is made from 40-year-old vines in the DO of Ribera del Guadiana in Extremadura, southwest Spain.
The aromas are quite low-key – pears, white flowers and spice – but the palate has real substance and resonates with ripe white peach streaked with lime, a rich texture and a hint of earthy spice. Although it's no lightweight, everything is in balance and there's enough spring in its step for it to be a restorative aperitif. That said, it would be good with substantial fish, chicken or pork, cheese dishes and vegetable bakes. 14%
Bodegas Martínez Paiva Solo Cayetana 2018
£14, or £12.60 club member price, The Daily Drinker