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WINE OF THE WEEK: Ramón Bilbao Rioja Edición Limitada 2015, Rioja, Spain

£12.95, Great Western Wine

Ramon Bilbao Rioja

There are some Riojas that wouldn't be up to Christmas lunch, but this has what it takes – and not only to stand up to the cacophony of trimmings and accompaniments that cascades around the traditional turkey but to stand up to a rib of beef with creamed horseradish (more cream/crème fraiche than horseradish, please) or a multi-cultural vegetarian or vegan fest. With roast goose I prefer more mature reds (my matching wine to goose principles are here), but if you're majoring on fruity, sharp, braised red cabbage as the accompaniment, this would do a good job. Christmas aside, I'd think along the lines of pigeon breasts, herby lamb, slow-roast pork belly, root vegetable gratin or cheeses such as Manchego or Lincolnshire Poacher. What sets this apart from many Riojas is that, although it's aged in oak – a not insignificant 14 months in French oak – the driving force is the brightness and intensity of the fruit, and that comes from the particular vineyards. Winemaker Rodolfo Bastida seeks out Tempranillo grapes in high-altitude vineyards on the mountain slopes around the town of Haro in Rioja Alta. The result is a deep coloured, polished and concentrated wine with dark, ripe fruit – plums and black cherries – savoury richness, oak, coffee and cardamom notes and just a suggestion of freshening mint. 14%.

Ramón Bilbao Rioja Edición Limitada 2015, Rioja, Spain

£12.95, Great Western Wine

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