£17.55–£21.99, Exel Wines, Noel Young WInes, No2 Pound Street, Loki Wine
Why oh why are we so resistant to Riesling in the UK? On second thoughts, don't answer. We've been there before. Instead, just try this, or even a different Australian dry Riesling: I don't mind, but do try one. This, though, is a particular favourite that I've been waiting since April to recommend. It's made by Stephanie O'Toole on her organic estate in the heart of Australian Riesling country, the Clare Valley, and it's wonderfully juicy and pure, with flavours of lime juice and zest rubbing shoulders with preserved lemon, apple, stony-mineral coolness and spine-tingling acidity. It's irresistible now, but one of the great things about these dry Rieslings, invariably sealed with a screw-cap, is how long you can keep them: if you've got the self-discipline and somewhere to store them, 10 years and more is no problem. Another is their food matching potential. They're brilliant aperitifs, but also one of the most versatile of food wines. Apart from partnering all sorts of fish, especially shellfish, Riesling is one of the best wines for the pungent, piquant, spicy, sour and sometimes sweet flavours of various south-east Asian cuisines, and it copes with all sorts of other potentially challenging foods – capers, tomatoes (the acidity of fresh, the intensity of sun-dried), mustard, smoked mackerel, cold roast meat, vinaigrette, beetroot, green olives, capers. I could go on, but you need to get out there and try this. For alternative stockists, contact customer services at Liberty Wines.
Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling 2017, Clare Valley, South Australia
£17.55–£21.99, Exel Wines, North & South Wines, No2 Pound Street, Loki Wine