£19.50, Tanners Wines
From a region favoured by sommeliers looking for wines that are versatile with food, this white is a mouthwatering combination of toasty hazelnut richness and pristine lemon-zest and candied citrus intensity. There’s a strong streak of fine white Burgundy about it, but with more spring in its step. Chardonnay needs no explanation, but the other half of the blend may do. Savagnin is very much a variety of the Jura, where it’s used especially for Vin Jaune, the Jura wine matured under flor like fino sherry, but Cuvée Castor – all purity, precision and richness – is the antithesis of the oxidative Vin Jaune style. Champ Divin’s vineyards are certified biodynamic – hence the name Castor, after a star (strictly speaking six stars, before anyone corrects me) – and the wines have very little sulphur added to them. Try it with fish, chicken, spices, roast vegetables, cream sauces or cheese, or drink it on its own.
Champ Divin Cuvée Stellaire Castor Chardonnay/Savagnin 2016, Côtes du Jura, France