£16.99, Waitrose and independents
I’m not letting summer go without another classic, pale rosé from Provence. This, appropriately, is from the producer that has done most to change the global face of rosé over the last decade by making rosés that can stand their ground alongside fine reds and whites. Serious wines, but wines that you can have fun with in much the same way as Champagne. Château d'Esclans' most expensive wine, Garrus, is made from Grenache vines planted more than 80 years ago and is fermented and aged in burgundy barrels. It's a magnificent wine that you can cellar – and it costs around £90. Les Clans, too, is splendid (£45–£60, depending on vintage and retailer). But there's also an affordable face of d’Esclans: Whispering Angel. Unoaked and made from purchased grapes, it's effortlessly elegant and fresh, with spice and quince notes floating over red berry and cherry fruit and a seamless smooth texture. Drink it on its own or with fish, seafood, salads, pissaladière, charcuterie...
Caves d’Esclans Whispering Angel 2016, Cotes de Provence, France
£16.99, Waitrose; many independents, including Hennings Wine, From Vineyards Direct, winedirect.co.uk; £22.50–£24, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and Majestic.