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WINE OF THE WEEK: Domaine Collin Crémant de Limoux Brut Cuvée Sélection

£12.50, Yapp Brothers

Recommending a Crémant de Limoux, rather than a Prosecco, makes me feel a bit like King Canute. There seems to be no holding back the tidal wave of Prosecco flowing into the nation's bars, trolleys, fridges and glasses, but if you sometimes (or always) crave something less sweet and frothy, here is a French sparkling wine that's more like Champagne. It's made in the same way as Champagne, using the same grape varieties, and has a similar, enticing, biscuity flavour, but it's softer and rounder. Better still, it comes with a modest price tag - and, for retro fans, a quaint Seventies label.

Domaine Collin Crémant de Limoux Brut Cuvée Sélection, Limoux, France

£12.50, Yapp Brothers

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